It all started at 10 am on the morning of Dorothy’s Birthday.  (“Many Happy Returns Dorothy!”)

I was supposed to try to find a taxi, then text Zulaa that I was ‘en route’ so that we could meet at her door – that was the theory.  I was a little early since I was running out of gifts to hand out and was looking for an open shop.  Zulaa wasn’t ready, but the taxi-driver and I waited for her.  We were going to ‘Tumerstam’, the small outlying suburb of Choibalsan where I work at the ‘wee school’.   Eventually Zulaa appeared and waved her father’s car keys at me and the driver.  OK, change of plan – no problem.   Taxi shot off, with his fare money in tact, and rightly so, I thought.  He had been promised a fare and had waited 15mins!     Zulaa was aghast! 

Anyway, off we went, but we had to pick up some passengers who were returning home from the festivities of Day 1: her grandparents and aunt with baby.  They were deposited at their home in ‘Tumerstam’, then we headed for Enkhtaivan’s home.  She lives in a little wooden house in the ger district.   What a lovely welcome we received, (as was the case in every home.)  I only then, discovered, that I had forgotten my camera, so photos of this day’s visits may come later, if people remember to email them to me.

Phew! at last…………Enkhtaivan’s mother is older than I am, so my greeting to her was as ‘younger to older’ person.  Hurrah! I’m not the oldest in Mongolia.  Once again the table was just as laden as the pictures showed, yesterday, only this time, The whole sheep’s head was staring at me with sightless eyes!!!! Yeah, yeah,  that’s a contradicition in terms, but you know what I mean.  Someone took pictures of me and the sheep………….  It didn’t smile! – I tried to.

We stayed ’til after 1pm and then Zulaa, having drunk no alcohol, drove us to her grandparents, for a short visit.  More of the same wonderful hospitality and lots of jokes, carefully translated by Zulaa, then, it emerged that, apparently, I will be giving her grandfather two weeks of English lessons.  Did I agree to that?  Must have done……………I blame the vodka shots, they just keep coming.  But they are heavily disguised with the other mandatory two drinks, suutei tsai(milk tea) and shuus(juice) always the three, in every house we visited. 

Onwards and upwards.  Back to the Aimag(town centre) where we arrive at Zulaa’s home.  Her parents have a houseful of guests, and I even know some of them.  Greetings for all.  (I am now an old hand at this scarf thing).  Again, the food and drink, and I have lost count of how many ‘buuz’(meat dumplings) I have consumed.  People come and go, and by now, it’s 3 ‘o clock and I’m flagging.  Not for long…….time to head for the Wee School Director’s home.  Bliss! it’s just around the corner from where I live.  

We arrive in brilliant sunshine and a carnival type atmosphere. The square is full of people, young and old, all on there way to somewhere, dressed in their best, many  in elaborate traditional dress and then there’s me…. wilting in the wake of over-indulence.

Once again, the warm welcome and customary greetings, and there’s just us for around ten minutes, then more guests arrive and another, older person for me to ‘respect’.  Yessss!  At around 5pm, we take our leave.  I feel ’shattered’ but have only to totter round the corner.  No, I don’t mean stagger, I am tottering because I am wearing, ridiculously high heeled boots……… no other reason. 

Bye Zulaa, see you at work on Monday!

Sometime later, as I stand quietly, recovering, at my window, surveying the scene, a horseman, dressed like Chinggis Khan, suddenly gallops across the square and vanishes into the darkness.  Wow! how surreal!   A country of contrasts, is Mongolia: sunshine, blue skies- freezing cold; men wearing deels(fur-lined coats) on horseback – speaking on their mobile phones.  

No visit planned for today.  Farewell meal for Maarten and Angus at Orgil’s, then back to my place for drinks, nibbles and chat.