This is a bizarre feeling.  I am safely home in France, and I haven’t yet told you about my wonderful time in UB.

I had a long list of tasks to perform after my arrival in UB and since the plane was delayed, it was too late for Mavis to attend the Valentine’s Party at the apartment of another volunteer, Sophie.   Rather, we ate a late dinner and downed a nice bottle of red, talked until the ‘yaks’ came home, then slept the sleep of the just.  Next morning, I started on my ‘to do’ list, including, collecting my airline tickets, from the Aeroflot Offices, and having lunch with the new group of VSO volunteers.  Another item on the list was to ring Tuvshin, the brother of the nice Russian lady, Tuvshi, whom I had met, briefly, when asking directions and who had  called me several times since.  Her brother, had then called me, because he speaks good English and remembered that I would be in UB that weekend.   By the end of the cconversation, I was unsure if he was inviting me to see him in a ballet gala, or he was simply telling me about the show.   I called him.    I told him that Mavis had tried to buy us tickets, but….. he finished my sentence, it had been a complete, sell out.  No problem, come to the ‘workers’ entrance, and I’ll see that you both get in.    I said to Mavis, ‘I really hope we can pick him out in the line of dancers, so that, later we can compliment him on his performance.’

After, working my way through the list, including picking up my air tickets, and meeting the new batch of volounteers for lunch, I arrived at the National Opera House at around 4pm.  I was to call him and he would give me my instructions.  Tried his mobile, no reply.  walked around, called Mavis and said ‘get here now!’  Allsorts of VIPs were arriving by official car, and vanloads of fresh flowers were being delivered, continuously.  My phone rang, it was him, apologising for missing my call but he had been rehearsing.  I should come to the side entrance and he would meet me.  Mavis arrived, full of excitement and anticipation. We walked round again, and eventually found an entrance, complete with guard, who wouldn’t let us in.  He, of course, spoke no English and our Mongolian is sketchy – to say the least.    I turned to Mavis and said ‘Do you think I should I ring Tuvshin again?’  A girl who was passing, heard me and said ‘Tuvshin?’ I nodded, she grabbed my arm and ushered us inside.  We trailed after her through the theatre, which was filling up nicely, and followed her across the ‘actual stage’ (with Mavis muttering about she wished she had brought her tu-tu) then upstairs to around the third floor to the dressing rooms and there he was.  To say that our mouths dropped open, would be to understate the case.  There stood this vision, TALL, DARK AND DROP DEAD GORGEOUS!!!

‘Ah, you must be Kay, thank you for being my sister’s friend, come let’s find your seats.  So good of you to come.’  Wow! and Wow! again.  He called over a smart young woman, who asked us to follow her,. The vision said ‘ I must prepare for the show, now, see you later.’  We were shown to our VIP box,  byassing Swiss friends, Karl and Antoinette, who were queueing for entry and who looked puzzled by our our ’special treatment,’ but no time to explain.    Seated in the front row of the box –  on our own, we felt very grand and I wished I had been wearing something more glamourous than jeans and nice top.  I reiterated my worry about not recognising Tuvshin in the lineup.  Mavis agreed and we decided to lie, anyway, and say that he was the best in the line,

The show opened with a series of contemporary dances and – guess what, he did a duet with the star in the first item.  Oh good, we thought, at least we don”t have to lie……….  We needn’t have worried, the whole show was about him:  he was the star!!!!!   I have included some publicity about him and his company for your edification, but all I can say is, that it was one of the most memorable experiences I have ever had and I haven’t washed my face since at the backstage ’press fest’, he left the real important guests and came over to give me a hug and a kiss on each cheek, and again to thank us for coming.  We didn’t even see his sister, Tuvshi, in the crowd, but spoke later on the phone and I shall see her in two weeks when I return for the conference and other VSO business.  

Signed,

Kay Stairs (Newly-converted ballet fanatic!)

Exhibitions, Music, Movie

Tuvshin Returns for Gala Ballet

14.02.2008

The Ballet Gala, an evening of ballet with B.Tuvshinbat, just known as Tuvshin worldwide, a leading dancer with the New Jersey Ballet (NJB) will be held on February 16…

It was supposed to be China, in general, Bejiing, in particular, but not this time ‘The Great Wall’ will have to wait.

   Since I am halfway through my placement, I am taking my allocated leave, and should have been heading east.  However, between, visa, problems and the old, ’snow on the rail lines’ story, it won’t happen any time soon.  Instead, I am heading home for a few days. On Friday, I fly to UB, on the same plane as Maarten and Angus, who are also returning home after, completing their two year placement.  So, the trip to UB should be interesting.  I shall stay with Mavis again, and leave on Monday morning,  for Moscow, then Paris, then Toulouse, arriving home, late afternoon, the same day.  (with crossing time zones, I almost arrive before I leave, some places)  I shall return to Mongolia on the 27 February, in time for a VSO conference, then spend time in UB, visiting some “children’s homes” with our friend, Bolserran, from “Anna home”.  This is to help him make some useful and experienced contacts in the business of looking after, abandoned children.

One really amazing thing about this coming weekend is that I shall be meeting up with a chance acquaintance.   

During my last visit, when I met with the writers, I found myself disorientated in an unfamiliar part of the city and asked for directions from a lady who was waiting to cross the street next to me.  This kind person, who happened to be Russian, insisted on taking me to my destination by taxi and spoke just a few words of English to me.  She also insisted in giving me her mobile number and taking mine.  She has tried to call me several times, but always when I could not answer the call.  I finally, through Zulaa, called her and she told me that her brother would telephone me soon and speak English to me.   He rang yesterday and it turns out that he is a ‘ballet dancer’ from Moscow and he will be dancing in the National Opera House, in UB on Saturday, and I am invited to attend.  (This is where I saw ‘Swan Lake’ three weeks ago) and should be an exciting experience, all this, from a five minute ‘chance’ encounter.  Will certainly feed back all about it.

Meanwhile, I am working really hard this week to try to urge things on to the next stage where I can leave work that can be done whilst I am away.  Just as I was preparing to leave the school, a delegation arrived to wish me ‘Bon Voyage’.   I thought they were going to sing and play for me, but, instead, the Director made a speech to wish me well and presented me with this wonderful gift – a ‘morin khuur’ a horsehead-violin. which is the Mongolian National musical instrument.  I was touched and stunned.

 Isn’t it gorgeous?

It all started at 10 am on the morning of Dorothy’s Birthday.  (“Many Happy Returns Dorothy!”)

I was supposed to try to find a taxi, then text Zulaa that I was ‘en route’ so that we could meet at her door – that was the theory.  I was a little early since I was running out of gifts to hand out and was looking for an open shop.  Zulaa wasn’t ready, but the taxi-driver and I waited for her.  We were going to ‘Tumerstam’, the small outlying suburb of Choibalsan where I work at the ‘wee school’.   Eventually Zulaa appeared and waved her father’s car keys at me and the driver.  OK, change of plan – no problem.   Taxi shot off, with his fare money in tact, and rightly so, I thought.  He had been promised a fare and had waited 15mins!     Zulaa was aghast! 

Anyway, off we went, but we had to pick up some passengers who were returning home from the festivities of Day 1: her grandparents and aunt with baby.  They were deposited at their home in ‘Tumerstam’, then we headed for Enkhtaivan’s home.  She lives in a little wooden house in the ger district.   What a lovely welcome we received, (as was the case in every home.)  I only then, discovered, that I had forgotten my camera, so photos of this day’s visits may come later, if people remember to email them to me.

Phew! at last…………Enkhtaivan’s mother is older than I am, so my greeting to her was as ‘younger to older’ person.  Hurrah! I’m not the oldest in Mongolia.  Once again the table was just as laden as the pictures showed, yesterday, only this time, The whole sheep’s head was staring at me with sightless eyes!!!! Yeah, yeah,  that’s a contradicition in terms, but you know what I mean.  Someone took pictures of me and the sheep………….  It didn’t smile! – I tried to.

We stayed ’til after 1pm and then Zulaa, having drunk no alcohol, drove us to her grandparents, for a short visit.  More of the same wonderful hospitality and lots of jokes, carefully translated by Zulaa, then, it emerged that, apparently, I will be giving her grandfather two weeks of English lessons.  Did I agree to that?  Must have done……………I blame the vodka shots, they just keep coming.  But they are heavily disguised with the other mandatory two drinks, suutei tsai(milk tea) and shuus(juice) always the three, in every house we visited. 

Onwards and upwards.  Back to the Aimag(town centre) where we arrive at Zulaa’s home.  Her parents have a houseful of guests, and I even know some of them.  Greetings for all.  (I am now an old hand at this scarf thing).  Again, the food and drink, and I have lost count of how many ‘buuz’(meat dumplings) I have consumed.  People come and go, and by now, it’s 3 ‘o clock and I’m flagging.  Not for long…….time to head for the Wee School Director’s home.  Bliss! it’s just around the corner from where I live.  

We arrive in brilliant sunshine and a carnival type atmosphere. The square is full of people, young and old, all on there way to somewhere, dressed in their best, many  in elaborate traditional dress and then there’s me…. wilting in the wake of over-indulence.

Once again, the warm welcome and customary greetings, and there’s just us for around ten minutes, then more guests arrive and another, older person for me to ‘respect’.  Yessss!  At around 5pm, we take our leave.  I feel ’shattered’ but have only to totter round the corner.  No, I don’t mean stagger, I am tottering because I am wearing, ridiculously high heeled boots……… no other reason. 

Bye Zulaa, see you at work on Monday!

Sometime later, as I stand quietly, recovering, at my window, surveying the scene, a horseman, dressed like Chinggis Khan, suddenly gallops across the square and vanishes into the darkness.  Wow! how surreal!   A country of contrasts, is Mongolia: sunshine, blue skies- freezing cold; men wearing deels(fur-lined coats) on horseback – speaking on their mobile phones.  

No visit planned for today.  Farewell meal for Maarten and Angus at Orgil’s, then back to my place for drinks, nibbles and chat. 

At Darijaw’s house – ‘meanma pal’

Darijaw and Zulaa in traditional costume

‘A wee snack’

Temugin getting ready to ‘trick or treat’

At home of Director of Big School.  Zulaa, Budtuya, Kay and ‘thingmie’  No one told us the name of Director’s husband.

Before I start on Tsagaan Sar, I thought you might like to see the following photo.  This is the moment when my camera froze at the ‘World’s Coldest Picnic’.

Always, beautiful blue skies and sunshine.

Think of what I have had to say on planning ahead in Mongolia.  A contradiction in terms?  Well to make matters worse, the pundits can’t agree about which day is the actual Tsagaan Sar(White Moon.)  So we have two days to choose from.   The ‘purists’, mainly older people are opting for the 7th February rather than the official New Year’s Day on the 8th.  

So the year of the mouse/rat begins on either Thursday or Friday, depending on which astrologer you favour.  I’m still recovering from finding out that I am a ’snake’ - born in the year of….. that is.  Meanwhile, the pig still rules! 

Since the main thrust of this Festival is about respect for older people, and I mean anyone who is older than you.  e.g. your older sister, brother, parents, grandparents etc.  Anyone older counts and commands respect.

Of course, since I am, practically, the oldest person in Mongolia, there are few people to whom I can show my respect.  Oh yes, there are rituals and greetings and gifts, for example a blue Buddhist scarf which is draped over the wrists of the visitor and transferred to the host during the greeting.    Young people rise with the sun and greet their elders, “Amar bainauu?”  “Are you well?”  Outstretched arms, palms upwards, and a bow towards the elder. 

I shall visit the homes of both Directors, Zulaa’s parents and I have decided only to visit one teacher, Darijaw, since she invited me weeks ago.  (Is this a record for Mongolia?)  Remember the boy who ran away to UB? This is his teacher.  There is no way I can visit all the teachers, so I shall visit no-one else.  A person could be killed with kindness, very easily, here.  Think of the food!  

 However, the toasts will not be made with vodka, as is the custom, since, that spirit is still banned in Choibalsan due to the untimely death and serious illness of many people from poisoned vodka.  Of course, some people have acquired or have reserve supplies, so who knows what we shall be drinking. 

Schools are barely operating and many pupils and staff have already disappeared to the countryside to be with their families.  At the moment, Zulaa and I are working mornings only, so life is fairly easy – but only for foreigners.  Locals, are feverishly intent on making their home absolutely as perfect as can be.  In my building alone, the noise of electric machinery, new furniture arriving and old, departing, fill the day and NIGHT!

Can I survive Tsagaan Sar?  And will I manage to meet anyone who is actually older than I am?

Oh..oh! 

Look what arrived back on the shelves today – just in time for Tsagaan Sar………………….

Here is some of my stash for visitors.  Note the special blue, Buddhist scarf which is a traditional gift for the host.

Cheers, Willie!  Happy Big 50!!!!!!!!!!!

Looks like my first three guests have just parked their car!

All teachers must take a turn of  ’door duty’ so must this young ‘teacher’.

We ‘foreigners’ have our own language to describe things Mongolian.  For example, several of us experienced a Mongolian moment’ yesterday.  Out of the blue, they changed all the arrangements for ‘Teachers’ Day’ and no-one gave it a second thought, except non-Mongolians.  We also make tentative arrangements with each other on a weekly basis, and tonight we usually eat together.  The text message arrived this morning saying: Happy Teachers’ Day!  See you at……………. unless, of course,  you are ‘mongoled’  Well I was ‘mongoled!’  At 4pm, this afternoon, I received an invitation to eat a celebration dinner with the teachers tonight, but I had already committed myself to meet the volunteers.  I could have cancelled, but Maarten is bringing me some mail from his latest trip to UB and I already agreed he should bring the parcel to the restaurant this evening.  So I had to politely decline, again!  Deborah has been ‘mongoled’ and I have no doubt that others will be too.  Plan ahead?  Don’t be ridiculous!

This, 9th Grade ‘teacher’ will teach classes all day today.  On her own!  This good behaviour is not just for the camera!

The general verdict is that the kids prefer their substitute ’teachers’ because their lessons are better prepared and more interesting than normal.

Director for a Day – the Head Girl really looks the part

This traditional day has been celebrated for many years, and everyone enjoys it.  I imagined, teachers would be ‘hovering’ in the background, just to keep things safe.  Wrong again.  Not a sight of one, yet every class ran like clockwork.  The real teachers did ‘their own thing’  awarding each other certificates and running Quizzes and competitions etc.  Some went home early, so I assume a skeleton staff were around ’somewhere’.

There are certain phrases that have not yet reached Mongolia: ‘classroom disruption’, and ‘litigious society’ to name but two.

Yet again, Zulaa and I left early.

Would I lie?

Okay, but honestly, they changed the whole scenario to tomorrow.  Where else could that happen?  My camera is ‘champing at the bit’ 

See you tomorrow – I think(fingers crossed)

 

The world’s coldest picnic – my camera froze, so no more pictures.

Just had to tell you.  This morning as I waited for my microbus to take me to the ‘Wee School’, I realised that, I had never been so cold in my life.  My Weather web said, “-23, feels like -32.” ( They tell me at -50 ‘Your lungs freeze’) I had to wait for an hour, and by then, everything but my lungs were frozen.  I had tried to phone to let the school know, that I would be late, but my mobile phone was FROZEN!!!  The buttons wouldn’t move.    Got there – eventually; thawed out - eventually.  I felt like a 4yr old bull!(only regular blog readers will understand that simile).

Anyway, time to confess.  I lied.    I didn’t mean to, but my Mongolian is so feeble that only today, did I discover that  Teachers’ Day is actually, tomorrow and not last week as I had thought.  All the events of last week were simply the big build-up for tomorrow.  There will be award ceremonies and all sorts of celebrations, all over the place, for the lucky teacher stars.

In the ‘Wee School’, they will mark the occasion by allowing pupils to take on the roles of the teachers.  Therefore, we shall have a ‘Pupil/Director, and lots of ‘Pupil/teachers’.  I imagine it will be lots of fun – at least for some.  I’ll be taking photos and will post them tomorrow after work.  So don’t miss that. 

No common meal this evening.  Everyone is either, out of town or too busy, cold, tired or had a better offer.  I’m staying home!  It won’t be like this next week………Tsaagan sar looms.  So far, I have had only five invitations to visit homes.  I was told, yesterday, that many people will be upset, if I don’t come to see them for the Festival.  Help!!!!!!!! 

 I tried to tell them that I’m OK with all the vodka shots, but I draw the line at ’sheep’s eyes’.  Worryingly, they all just fell about laughing.   Apparently, everyone ADORES THIS DELICACY’ – even Zulaa.  They said, I should just close my eyes and open my mouth and it would be fine.  Help again!!!  Beam me up, Scottie.

This week, the children were on holiday from school, so the ‘Big School’ was eerily quiet.  There were a few kids around for extra tuition, but on the whole, it was a week for teachers.  I use the term advisedly, as it actually was ‘National Teachers’ Day’ during that week, and there were umpteen competitions in which teachers could take part – and they did.  Such competitiveness you would not believe.  From sports to methodology, the teachers prepared for their chosen discipline and thought of nothing else the whole week.  Unfortunately, my counterpart, the Director was taken ill and spent the week in hospital, so Zulaa and I did a lot of ‘going home early’ this week.  The word is that the Director is feeling much better and will be home soon.  She should be back to work when I next return to her school, the week after next.

The ‘Big School’

Meanwhile, I am helping the two school communities to conduct a ’self-evaluation’ exercise.    From here on, I shall be busy collating the results of the questionnaires from senior and middle management, staff, parents and pupils of both schools.  These results will form the basis of each school’s improvement and action plan and should give us all, lots of helpful data to be used in formulating the plans, both strategic and operational. So life goes on, and can be simple and mundane, here, just like anywhere else.  Though not everywhere would you meet what are regarded as everyday sights  in Mongolia!   Is this anything like your local ‘Farmers’ Market’?.        

 

This little piggy………Then, just around the corner!

Did I say mundane?  it may be that, but for me, never dull. and of course there were the usual Wednesday and Friday  meals together, for any vols who can make it.  Always a good session of catching up with the news from far and near. All the talk, now is how  everyone is mentally bracing themselves  for Tsagaan sar, the next big Festival in February.   

Following that, big changes amongst us ‘foreigners’.   Maarten and Angus, will go home to Holland and Scotland, respectively, after having spent two years, working here in Choybalsan.  Three new volunteers will arrive for short-term placements.   As I said, never a dull moment!  Then, of course,  there are the holidays – Lesley and Agnieska have already gone to enjoy their two weeks leave.  I am due to go off around the 13 February, and I have some tentative plans for that break.  I shall  have more to say about it at a later date.  In the meantime, I am meeting Deborah for dinner tonight.  She is missing her pal, Agnieska.

 How to get her to the vet?  Remember the hat?

- well that’s how.  ‘Cat- in-a- Hat’

 

Friday was always going to be a busy day but the fact that the kitten was sick didn’t help.  After a visit to the vet, it emerged that she had a vitamin deficiency.  So, crushed eggshells and Vit D are now the order of the day for the newly named ‘Phoebe’.  The bewildered little creature was duly delivered to the willing volunteer ‘catsitter’ – Deborah.  Then off  we went to catch the ‘plane to UB.  The airport is well-run and efficient, and about the size of a car-rental office.  I travelled with Oyuna, a Mongolian language teacher who had spent two weeks helping long term VSO folk to spruce up their language skills. The air trip took 1 hour, 30 mins and we were met at the airport by the school bus, which fought its way through masses of the very heaviest traffic and dropped me off at Mavis’s apartment. 

That evening, we ate at Karl’s place – he is a former classmate from our first Mongolian language classes, who is currently on his own as his wife, Antoinette, has returned to the family home in Switzerland and will be back here in mid-February.   They live in a really grand apartment.   Karl works for the Swiss Government, and is looking at the ‘desertification’ of Mongolia.  He could be here for some years.

Next day Mavis and I met with the Mongolian award winning writer, Batjargal Dolgor.  Also at the ‘working lunch’ were Mavis’s translator, Oriuna, and Toonga, Mavis’s counterpart from an American partner charity, ADRA.   They are writing an inclusive curriculum for the Mongolian Government to try to improve the lot of pupils with special educational needs. The whole meeting went swimmingly.  The author, who is a professor of children’s literacy at the University of Mongolia, had brought lots of books, and I bought most of them. The books are perfect for my puposes.  They are bright, well presented and many of them contain a ‘message’  – very relevant to the changing trends in Mongolian society. These books are targetting pre-school age children and their parents. and will be used to promote literacy, in general, but also introduce children to the idea of reading for pleasure and develop this reading habit, before they start to associate reading with school work, only! – A noble sentiment?  Maybe so but ………..

Our second meeting was with a representative of a Government-supported, World Bank Organisation-sponsored project called “READ”. (Sorry, I can’t tell you her name as her card is only in Mongolian script, and I don’t dare guess what it says.  Anyway to me, she was ‘Kisshei” and her aim is to provide every primary school class from grades 1-5, with a class library.  The pilot scheme will be completed soon and millions of tugruks are being spent in the implementation of the initiative.  Can you see how my little project for the two schools designated to me, fits beautifully with this plan?  All those involved, are more than willing to help me and to monitor the work in the schools since it is so much in keeping with their own aims and objectives.  I am thrilled by the whole concept.

Mass in the Ger – James is on the right of the picture.

The weekend was more than I could ever have hoped for and for that, I have my friends and colleagues in UB to thank.I shall briefly mention some of the other activities of the visit. 

On Sunday morning, I met up with my friends, Fr James, the Chinese priest (remember the 2 clocks at the station?) and Sr Agnes.   Mavis, a Quaker by faith, and I attended the Ger Mass and stayed for the tea and buns, afterwards.  Next, we went to see the children’s home, four times the size of ‘Anna Home’, and it is the pride and joy of Fr James.  Since this one has been running successfully for more than nine years, some of the ‘Anna Home ’staff are going to set up  links to ‘pick their brains’.

In the afternoon, we went shopping in the third district, where one can buy most things, (unlike Choybalsan).   We both bought toasters.  Ah! The sheer luxury of hot toasted bread and buns.  I’ll be the envy of my friends.  Then the ‘piece de resistance’  – the ballet!  Fourth front row of the stalls to watch an excellent performance of ‘Swan Lake’ in a beautiful theatre right in the heart of the capital.  More luxury!  We went on to eat at the ‘Grand Khan Irish Bar’ which also serves high quality international food.  Then a final visit to friends for coffee before bed beckoned.

I had to leave at the crack of dawn, next morning, and managed to do so without disturbing Mavis.  Finally, staggering under the weight of books, toaster and other essential purchases, I set off to catch my plane.  I did really well, here.  First taxi driver I hailed, when asked how much to the airport, he quoted, 20.000Tgs  I named my price, and he called my bluff and left.  The next one arrived within minutes and he quoted my very price  -  Just shows, it pays to shop around!